Observatorio Muisca

Long before the Spanish arrived, the Muisca people raised rows of stone columns in this valley to follow the sun. The Spanish called the site El Infiernito, “little hell.”

What to see

Two parallel rows of standing stones mark the sun’s path, and the shadows they cast helped the Muisca track solstices and equinoxes and plan their farming year. Other stones on the site are phallic, which is part of why Spanish missionaries saw it as pagan and gave it its name.

Why visit

It’s one of the most important Muisca archaeological sites in Colombia and an easy, uncrowded counterpoint to the colonial town. A guide on site brings the astronomy to life.

Getting there

It’s a few kilometres from the centre, close to El Fósil. Cycle, take a taxi, or visit on a tour that combines both.

Tips

Go around midday to see how the stones’ shadows work. The site is open and sunny, so bring a hat and water.